Cristina Milea

at BioHack Waag 2024 with Anne Vlaanderen, Maarten Smith and Maro Pebo

• week 1 biomaterials
• week 2 building-lab-machines/biomaterials
• week 3 fermentation/biomaterials
• week 4 microbial-wander/growing-biomaterials
• week 5 genetic-modification/bacterial-biosensors
• week 6 micro-propagation/chromatography/bacterial-dye
• week 7 crispr
• week 9-13 “Purple Power Play”, final project

“Purple Power Play” is the inaugural piece in a series designed to tell transformative stories through wearable art, merging traditional symbolism with cutting-edge biotechnological innovations. Each element of the costume, from its material composition to its thematic execution, challenges us to reflect on our own roles within the tapestry of history and modernity. Empress Theodora’s ascent from marginalization to empowerment serves as the inspiration for “Purple Power Play.” Drawing on James Conroyd Martin’s novel “The Child’s Fortune,” this installation captures Theodora’s transformation from a stigmatized courtesan to a pivotal figure in Byzantine history, showcasing her profound impact on gender equality and sumptuary laws. 

“Purple Power Play” is a dialogue on how past influences can catalyze future changes, bridging historical narratives with today’s challenges in sustainability and social justice. Each piece of the costume installation, from the regal purple hues to the organically shaped accessories, embodies Theodora’s enduring influence and our ongoing journey towards sustainability and equal rights. 

“I reflect on the profound impact of Empress Theodora, whose true value transcended her humble beginnings in 500 AD. Unlike those born into nobility (into the purple), Theodora’s worth was not recognized from birth. Yet, she managed to overcome stringent societal norms to ascend to power and instigate groundbreaking reforms that safeguarded women’s rights—reforms that still resonate in today’s discussions on equity and justice. After collaborating with organic resources for this piece, I have deepened my appreciation for nature’s inherent capacity for renewal and self-healing. Observing the perpetual life cycle beneath our feet has reinforced my understanding of nature’s resilience and the constant, transformative rhythm of life. This connection inspired me to re-envision Theodora’s opulent and luxurious, mosaic-detailed ceremonial costume using sustainable biomaterials like organic waste, mycelium, kombucha, and plant-based purple pigments. These materials serve as metaphors for the hidden value in overlooked resources, challenging traditional views on luxury and worth. They highlight themes of decay and regeneration but also symbolize the enduring legacy of Theodora’s life—a life that continues to inspire and provoke thought about what we value in our society and environment.” Cristina Milea 

The use of coffee waste leather in the exhibition symbolizes how she transformed her adversities into a catalyst for her rise to power. This material choice reflects a cycle of renewal and resistance against degradation, similar to how coffee waste is repurposed into durable, elegant leather
“Walk as proud as a peacock”, their mother would encourage. Subjected to stage humiliations from a tender age, Theodora gleaned crucial lessons in silence and patience. These experiences shaped her resilience, character, and future ambitions

1. coffee leather

Coffeexploration: recipes for coffee crafts by Isabel Allaert

RECIPE

” INGREDIENTS:

• 160 ML WATER
• 8 G AGAR AGAR
• 22 G GLYCERINE
• 34 G ESPRESSO GROUND COFFEE
• 6 G WHITE CLAY

1. BOIL THE WATER
2. ADD THE GLYCERINE AND AGAR AGAR
3. ONCE IT BOILS AGAIN, ADD THE COFFEE AND CLAY
4. LEAVE IT TO THICKEN. STIR YOUR HEART OUT SO IT DOESN’T BURN
5. POUR IT IN A CONTAINER (I USE PETRIDISHES)
6. LEAVE IT TO SET AND DRY A BIT
7. TAKE THE MATERIAL OUT OF THE CONTAINER
8. ALLOW IT TO FULLY SET. IT MIGHT TAKE A FEW DAYS “

The sleeve detail showcases swan feathers made from banana peel leather, dried mushrooms, shells, and Scoby, illustrating a creative transformation of organic waste. This design, incorporating symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast, emphasizes a lifecycle of renewal and beauty. Each material, from the protective shells and regenerative Scoby to the reused mushrooms and banana peels, symbolizes resilience, growth, and the innovative repurposing of everyday waste.

2. organic materials:

sleeve making off….

“ From marginalization…… to purple.”

Empress Theodora, originally from a lower class and not born into nobility, became one of the first women to rise to a purple-wearing status of imperial authority in Byzantine history.

A sleeve or himation that restricted the use of one arm signified upper-class status. This parallels Theodora’s adaptation and growth into her role as empress, mirrored in the flexible and protective qualities of kombucha leather, symbolizing her resilience and evolving nature.

Sleeve Detail: Reflecting the historical significance of purple, the sleeve detail of the costume is inspired by the murex snail. It is meticulously crafted from sustainable materials like mushrooms, red onion peels, and kombucha, illustrating a creative fusion of natural decay and regal legacy.

3. Searching for the Legendary Purple Pigment

Why Tyrian Purple Dye Is So Expensive?

The emblem of imperial authority, purple, symbolized the elite status in Byzantine society. Extracted laboriously from murex snails, this costly dye—known as Tyrian purple—was a marker of high socio-political standing, rigorously controlled by sumptuary laws that dictated who could wear purple garments. These laws served as biopolitical tools, structuring public appearance and reinforcing social hierarchies through visible distinctions.

The phrase “born into the purple” specifically denoted individuals born into royalty during a monarch’s reign, identifying them as legitimate successors. Originating from Byzantine tradition, imperial offspring were delivered in chambers lavishly adorned with purple, underscoring the preeminent status of the ruling family. The birthing rooms for empresses were decked in purple textiles, turning the expression into a tangible sign of noble birth. Today, Tyrian purple remains one of the most expensive pigments in the world, priced at $3,000 per gram.

To create a natural purple pigment using logwood, berries, and butterfly pea flowers, follow this recipe:

Ingredients:

• Logwood chips (1 cup) – Known for its strong natural dye.
• Mixed berries (1 cup, crushed) – Choose berries like blueberries or blackberries for their deep hues.
• Butterfly pea flowers (1/2 cup) – These flowers provide a vivid blue color which can be shifted to purple.
• Water (4 cups)
• Alum (2 tablespoons) – Acts as a mordant to fix the dye to the fabric.
• Baking soda or lemon juice (optional, to adjust pH)

Equipment:

• Large pot
• Strainer
• Wooden spoon
• Heat source
• Protective gloves

Instructions:

1. Preparation:
   • Soak the logwood chips in two cups of water overnight to help release the dye.
2. Cooking the Dye:
   • In a large pot, combine the soaked logwood chips (and the water they soaked in) with the crushed berries, butterfly pea flowers, and the remaining two cups of water.
   • Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about an hour, stirring occasionally. The longer you simmer, the more intense the dye will become.
3. Adjusting the Color:
   • Check the color of the liquid; it should have a deep purple hue. If it’s too blue, you can add a small amount of lemon juice to shift the pH and change the color towards red/purple. If it’s too red, add a pinch of baking soda to make it bluer.
4. Straining and Adding Mordant:
   • Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool.
   • Strain the liquid into another pot or container, removing all solid pieces.
   • Add alum to the strained dye liquid while it’s still warm to help set the dye into the fabric.
5. Dyeing the Fabric:
   • Wet the fabric you wish to dye and submerge it into the dye pot.
   • Simmer the fabric in the dye for at least an hour, stirring occasionally and checking for color depth. The longer the fabric stays in the dye, the deeper the color will set.
   • Turn off the heat and let the fabric sit in the dye until it reaches the desired shade.
6. Finishing:
   • Remove the fabric from the dye bath and rinse it under cold water until the water runs clear.
   • Hang the fabric to dry away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.

Notes:

• Always wear gloves when handling dyes to protect your skin.
• Test the dye on a small piece of fabric first to ensure the color meets your expectations.
• Natural dyes can be unpredictable, so results may vary each time.

This recipe should yield beautiful shades of purple dye using traditional and accessible ingredients.

4

The phenomenon where a purple flower changes color after boiling and mixing with different pH levels is due to the presence of natural pigments that are pH-sensitive. These pigments, commonly anthocyanins, react to changes in acidity or alkalinity by altering their molecular structure, which in turn affects their color. Here’s a breakdown of the factors involved:

1. Anthocyanins: These are water-soluble pigments found in many flowers, fruits, and vegetables. They belong to a class of compounds called flavonoids and can appear red, purple, or blue depending on the pH.
2. pH Levels: The color change occurs because anthocyanins can exist in multiple chemical forms depending on the pH of their environment:
   • In acidic conditions (low pH), anthocyanins typically appear red.
   • In neutral conditions, they may appear purple.
   • In alkaline conditions (high pH), they can shift to green or yellow.
3. Temperature: Boiling can affect the stability and structure of anthocyanins. Heat can cause anthocyanins to degrade or react with other molecules, potentially leading to a change in color.
4. Chemical Interactions: When mixed with other substances that may act as chelating agents or co-pigments, anthocyanins can undergo further changes in their molecular structure, affecting their color properties.

These factors combined explain why a purple flower can change color dramatically when subjected to different pH levels and boiling.

The process highlights the delicate balance of conditions that influence the visible properties of natural pigments.

4. Bacterial dye

“Bacterial Dye Breakthrough Revolutionizing the Textile Fashion Industry”

Unfortunately, my experiments did not yield the results we expected after several attempts because the bacteria kept dying. The reasons are still a mystery; it could be due to the wrong medium, incorrect incubator temperature, accidental contamination, or a combination of these factors and more. I will keep trying…

5. Organic waste and kombucha

Creating kombucha leather, “SCOBY leather,” involves using the cellulose byproduct of kombucha fermentation.

Here’s how you can make your own kombucha leather:

Ingredients:

• 1 SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast)
• Starter tea from a previous batch of kombucha
• Sweetened green or black tea (as needed)
• add vinegar to balance the Ph level (as needed)

Equipment:

• A wide, shallow container (like a baking dish)
• Cheesecloth or a clean cloth to cover
• A warm, dark place to ferment

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Tea:
   • Brew a batch of sweetened green or black tea — about 1 cup of sugar per gallon of tea.
   • Allow the tea to cool to room temperature.
2. Fermentation Setup:
   • In a wide, shallow, and clean container, combine the SCOBY with enough starter tea to slightly cover it.
   • Pour the cooled, sweetened tea into the container until the SCOBY is submerged.
   • Cover the container with a cheesecloth or a breathable cloth to prevent dust and insects from getting in, while still allowing the culture to breathe.
3. Fermentation:
   • Place the container in a warm, dark place (ideally around 25°C or 77°F) and let it ferment. Avoid disturbing the setup during this period.
   • After about 2-4 weeks, a new layer of SCOBY will form on the top, thickening into a gelatinous sheet. The longer it ferments, the thicker and more leather-like the material will become.
4. Harvesting the Kombucha Leather:
   • Once the SCOBY layer reaches your desired thickness, remove it from the tea.
   • Clean the new SCOBY layer with water to remove any tea and sugar residues.
5. Drying:
   • Lay the SCOBY flat on a non-stick surface or a sheet of parchment paper.
   • Allow it to air dry completely, which can take several days depending on the thickness and environmental conditions. It will become more leather-like as it dries.
6. Finishing Touches:
   • Once dry, you can treat the kombucha leather with natural oils or waxes to make it more durable and flexible.
   • You can also cut, sew, or dye the leather as needed for various crafts or projects.

Notes:

• The thickness and texture of your kombucha leather can vary based on how long you allow the SCOBY to grow.

6. The mycelium corset

the mycelium corset making off:

Creating mycelium leather involves cultivating fungal mycelium under controlled conditions to form a durable, leather-like material. Here’s a basic guide on how to make your own mycelium leather:

Ingredients:

• Mycelium spawn (commonly from Ganoderma lucidum or other suitable fungi)
• Substrate (such as sawdust, agricultural waste, or straw)

Equipment:

• Sterile bags or containers
• A sterile work area
• Humidity and temperature control systems

Instructions:

1. Substrate Preparation:
   • Choose a substrate that the specific type of mycelium you are using can thrive on. Common substrates include sawdust, straw, or agricultural byproducts.
   • Sterilize the substrate to kill any unwanted bacteria or fungi. This can be done by autoclaving, boiling, or baking the substrate.
2. Inoculation:
   • In a sterile environment, mix the mycelium spawn with the cooled, sterilized substrate.
   • Pack the mixture into sterile bags or containers. It’s important to ensure that these containers allow for some air exchange but prevent contamination.
3. Incubation:
   • Place the inoculated substrates in a dark, humid environment with a temperature suitable for the type of mycelium used (usually around 24°C or 75°F).
   • Allow the mycelium to grow through the substrate. This process usually takes 1-4 weeks, depending on the conditions and the type of mycelium.
4. Harvesting:
   • Once the mycelium has fully colonized the substrate and formed a dense mat, it’s ready to be harvested.
   • Remove the mycelium mat from the substrate. At this stage, it should hold together in a sheet-like form.
5. Drying and Curing:
   • Gently clean any substrate residues from the mycelium mat.
   • Lay the mat out to dry in a warm, well-ventilated area. You can use a fan to speed up the drying process.
   • As it dries, the mycelium mat will start to harden and take on a leather-like texture.
6. Finishing:
   • Once dried, the mycelium leather can be further treated to enhance its durability and texture. Common treatments include waxing or oiling to make it water-resistant.
   • The mycelium leather can be dyed, sewn, or otherwise manipulated as needed for various applications.

Notes:

• The quality and characteristics of the mycelium leather can vary based on the strain of mycelium, the type of substrate, and the environmental conditions during growth and drying.

the mycelium halo:

7. soft robotics